Alps and Turkey 2006

A story about our adventures in Monte Rosa massif (Italy) and Erciyes, Demirkazık and Kapadokya (Turkey)

Day 1: Sofia - Milano  Day 10: Nigde – Demirkazik village (1700m) – camp 3000m Index  Day 12: camp 3000m - 3200m – Demirkazik village (1700m)  Comments
Day 11: camp 3000m - Demirkazik (3756m) - camp 3000m /22.08.2006/

We wake up just in time to see the summit burning in the sunset! The way up goes through steep scree up to a col on 3350m, then on the ridge - first scree and then 300 vertical meters II-III UIAA graded rock ridge, which is very exposed and frequently very loose. On the hardest sections there is some pitons (about 6-7), but not enough for protecting the whole climb.

We reach the summit 3h after we left the tent. The weather is perfect and the view is breathtaking! We see Erciyes in the distance. After some pictures we go down the same route. The descend takes us 1 hour more than the ascend. The downclimb is not so difficult, but the thought that every mistake will be last makes us to be very concentrated!

Luckily we find some leaking water on the screes below the col and fill our bottles - we will spend one more night in our camp!


Sunrise over Demirkazik (3756m)
Sunrise over Demirkazik (3756m)
East wall at sunrise
East wall at sunrise
Scree towards the col
Scree towards the col
Rock climbing towards the col
Rock climbing towards the col
Next scree in a row
Next scree in a row
Last meters before the col
Last meters before the col
The summit is far away
The summit is far away
Scree and rock sections to the summit
Scree and rock sections to the summit
Looking down
Looking down
Ridge climbing
Ridge climbing
Piton
Piton
Camping place beneath the very summit
Camping place beneath the very summit
Yes! We made it!
Yes! We made it!
Erciyes in the distance
Erciyes in the distance
Aladaglar mountain from its highest point
Aladaglar mountain from its highest point
On the summit of Demirkazik (3756m)
On the summit of Demirkazik (3756m)
Downclimbing
Downclimbing
Feel the slope angle
Feel the slope angle
Up on the rock
Up on the rock
We are almost on the summit...
We are almost on the summit...
What now? How to downclimb this?!?
What now? How to downclimb this?!?
Our "straw" system
Our "straw" system